If a global pandemic has taught us anything, it’s to appreciate the small things: friendship, spending time outdoors, our health. At Swell Yoga we couldn’t agree with that message more, which is why we love surfing, an activity that brings together wellbeing, nature and friendship.
As a result of Coronavirus restrictions in 2020, interest in ocean activities, particularly surfing, has boomed. People locked in their homes and local areas, many far away from the coast, have been craving the ocean and the chance to connect with nature (past-times that have proven neurological benefits).
If you live in the UK, you don’t have to get a flight to Bali or Morocco to find waves, you can experience the adventure closer to home and keep your surf travel environmentally friendly.
Read on for information on top surf spots for beginner and experienced surfers, tips on artificial surf wave pools, and handy surf lingo to get to grips with.
Checking the conditions at Croyde Bay.
Why surfing is one of the fastest growing sports in the UK
Popularity for surfing in the UK has been growing steadily over the last few years. According to a Sport England survey last year, the number of people who surf in England grew to just over a million between 2017-2018 from 652,600 the previous year, making it one of the fastest growing sports in the country.
The interest in surfing follows a broader trend for outdoor activities in the UK with people stripping down for cold water swimming, wild swimming, stand-up-paddleboarding because it makes them feel so good.
Neuroscience studies over the last decade have shown that water (ocean, lakes, rivers, even baths) reduces the stress hormone cortisol in the body and makes us more calm and happy. Marine biologist Dr Wallace J Nichols describes this concept in his book Blue Mind, The Surprising Science That Shows How Being Near, In, On, or Under Water Can Make You Happier, Healthier, More Connected, and Better at What You Do.
Best surf spots around the UK (for beginners and experts)
The UK is bursting with surf spots, with almost 20,000 miles of coastline to choose from, there will be a wave for you. To begin at the extreme end, some of the biggest, scariest waves are found on the West Coast of the Republic of Ireland, see what happened in a small fishing town called Sligo this autumn.
You can surf beautiful peeling waves in Scotland, secret barrels in the North East and little windy spots along the south east coast, not to mention the South West. The town of Newquay in Cornwall became a hub for surf culture in the 1960s after a group of Australians brought over fibreglass surfboards and ‘unwittingly changed the face of the town forever’.
Five beginner surf spots (with equipment hire and reasonable public transport links)
If you’re trying out surfing for the first time, or you’ve surfed before but you’re still pretty green, then find a beach with good facilities and easy accessibility to take the pressure off a big day in the ocean!
Bracklesham Bay, West Sussex – Closest beach to London, has a cafe and surf shop which offers surf lessons. It’s worth calling ahead to check conditions since this spot doesn’t always get waves - 2XS Learn to Surf.
Long Sands Beach, Tynemouth – Has parking nearby, cafes, toilet facilities, surf schools - Tynemouth Surf Co.
Porthcawl, South Wales – One of the closest surf spots to Cardiff, Bristol and London. You can choose from Coney Bay and Rest Bay, the latter has a carpark, cafe, surf school, and toilet facilities - Porthcawl Surf School.
Saunton Sands, North Devon – Beautiful location on a three mile long beach leading to the Taw Estuary, with a cafe, shop and three surf schools to choose from - Saunton Beach.
Widemouth Bay, North Cornwall – This spot gets smaller swell than nearby Bude (making it beginner-friendly) and has lifeguard cover, a carpark, cafe, surf school, and toilet facilities - Freewave Surf Academy.
Head to the Surfing England website for more info on surf schools and surf safety and download a Surfers Code of Conduct below.
Tag team.
Five of the best intermediate and experienced surf spots
Here’s a collection of spots for those surfers with a little more experience, recommended for surfers who feel comfortable surfing green (unbroken) waves and want to do a little more exploring off the beaten track.
Blyth Beach, Northumberland – A beach break with the potential for almond-y barrels, you can get some cover from northerly winds behind the harbour wall.
Croyde Bay and Putsborough, North Devon – Croyde is perhaps one of the most famous surf spots in the UK, it provides beautiful barrels on the right day and longboard-able peelers on other days. But when the wind is howling onshore and ruining the surf, head around the coast to Putsborough Sands for more protected waves or even walk down towards ‘mid-beach’ which picks up more swell.
Gwenver Beach, North Cornwall – A lesser-known gem next to Sennen Cove that picks up plenty of swell and has lifeguard cover. Expect punchy waves and fast take-offs. You can also buy delicious chutneys and pickles for Sarah and Finn who manage the car park at the top of the hill.
Poldhu Cove, South Cornwall – A fun right hander that breaks off the rocks, set in a stunning valley with lifeguard cover and beautiful clear blue water.
Porthcawl, South Wales – We have already mentioned Porthcawl in the Beginners List but Rest Bay can’t be beaten for easy access from major cities and its consistency. It does get busy, but at least there’s plenty of peaks to choose from.
Swell Yoga surf guide Tom in the barrel in South Cornwall.
For more surf spot ideas have a look at Secret London’s review of the best surf spots in the UK.
Comparison of the best wave pools in the UK
Artificial wave technology isn’t new in the UK (the first artificial surfing lake at Adventure Parc Snowdonia in Wales opened in 2015) but the development of The Wave in Bristol in 2019 made wave pools more accessible for city-dwellers in the South and boosted the profile of wave pool surfing.
A wave pool is a great place to get started if you’re feeling nervous about learning a challenging sport and want to try it out without the added element of the open water. Read on for a comparison of the two wave pools available in the UK.
Pricing
Pricing for surf lessons comes in at £50 at both pools, although The Wave offers 2-hour surf lessons and Surf Snowdonia just 90-minutes. Although Surf Snowdonia does offer a one-day beginner course for £80.
Both spots have the same pricing in their different wave categories, ranging from £35 for an hour beginner surf session, to £50 for the advanced/expert options.
Drive time from London (hours)
Comparison of advanced waves
The Wave, Bristol:
A fast, challenging and powerful wave with a long face for performance turns and barrel sections. An entry level barrel which is easy to navigate.
Face height: Around 2.0m
Surf Snowdonia:
Powerful, consistent, head-high waves, the equivalent of an eighteen second ride per wave.
You will be able to practise a variety of different manoeuvres, and there’s even an air section if your skills are up to it.
Around 12 waves per hour.
Conclusion
If you’re looking for a day in the water and reliable surf conditions then head to The Wave, but if you want more than just surf, it’s worth a trip to Adventure Parc Snowdonia which offers indoor rock climbing, outdoor adventures, and Snowdonia National Park just around the corner.
Expect artificial wave locations to have new rules under Covid-19 restrictions so read up before your trip.
The most important surf terminology to know
Riding a single fin longboard on a right-hander
The surfing world can seem impenetrable to beginners, it’s a challenging sport to learn, requires very specific equipment, lots of travel and to top it off, there is a whole new lexicon to wrap your head around.
If you’re new to surfing and you haven’t got your head around the terminology, read on for a few useful terms:
A Rip - A channel of water moving out to sea, helpful for surfers paddling out to the breaking waves, but very dangerous for swimmers (head to the RNLI website for more details on rips and how to stay safe in the water).
Onshore/ Offshore winds - The direction of the wind makes all the difference to the surf; if the wind is blowing onshore (towards the beach), the waves become messy and crumbly and are harder to surf, offshore winds blow into the face of the waves and give them the best shape for surfing.
Period/ interval - ‘A magic number for determining how a swell will transform itself into surf at your beach’ according to surf forecasting site Magicseaweed. This is the measure of time it takes for two successive waves to pass through a certain point out at sea, this determines the quality of surf. An interval of at least 10 seconds is what you’re looking for. Head to Magicseaweed.com for more info on weather conditions.
Set - A group of larger waves which come at regular periods, the time between sets will vary depending on conditions.
Left-hand/ right-hand wave - This defines the way the wave breaks, imagine you’re the surfer on the wave, if you go left because the wave is breaking from the right to the left then it’s a left-hander.
Single fin - A board with one large fin.
Twin fin - Two fins (fins get smaller in size as they increase in number).
Thruster - Three fins.
Quad - You guessed it, four fins.
Duckdive - The act of diving a board under the breaking wave. This isn’t possible with large learner boards, instead you have to turtle roll to get under a wave.
Turtle roll - Turning the board upside down under a breaking wave so that you and the board can pass under the wave.
Wipeout - When you come off the board!
Why Swell Yoga created a Surf Road Trip for 2021
Swell Yoga was created by people who love surfing, adventure, and meeting new people, but want to keep those adventures as flight-free as possible. Since 2018 we have been running unforgettable surf and yoga camping weekends near Croyde Bay and now we are upping our game...
In 2021, Swell Yoga will host a couple of week-long surf and yoga camping trips with our usual jamboree of beautiful bell tents, star-lit campfires, and lively group dinners, as well as surf guiding to hidden-gem surf spots and a road trip into Cornwall.
We will spend the first couple of nights in our home break of Croyde Bay in Devon, before packing up and relocating to a new stunning spot in Cornwall for the second part of the week. We will have an experienced surf guide on hand to take us to the best spots and give pro surf tips. As always our travelling band will include our personal chef, yoga teacher, musicians and helpers!
The Surf Road Trips are for those who have done some surfing before – you will need to confidently paddle on a board and be able to catch green waves – but you don’t need to be a pro, we can provide surf coaching as well as surf guiding.
